37 Black Swans: Galapagos Part 1

What an amazing time Tom and I had.
Galapagos islands are incredible.
We arrived in Guayaquil Ecuador about 8.30pm on Friday 24th having departed Sydney at 11am Friday 24th !! A strange process ..out airline Latam was South American so we got to practice our Hola, Buenos dios/ tardes/ noches and Muchas gracias when flight attendants came by. We flew via Auckland NZ and changed to domestic flight in Santiago, Chile.
I was really excited to disembark in Chile...my first big OS destination. First stop was to loo...and had a rather surreal moment as Cliff Richard's Devil Woman blared out of the airport sound system...weird!! I guess I expected more samba/ rhumba music...or at least panpipes...haha.
Had a more exotic experience trying to order a cup of tea and hot chips for Tom..to non English speaking waiter... all sorted and he was quick to whip out a calculator to work out Peso to American Dollar conversion (including tip!!)

We did lots of circuits of the Airport and enjoyed the souvenir sights..
Unfortunately, the weather was quite cloudy so we could not see the Andes . But as we took off to Ecuador and moved through the clouds we had a spectacular view as our flight tracked north next to the mountain range... Fabulous.

We were met at the Jose Joaquin de Olmedo International Airport by a driver from our hotel and had a 10 minute drive to our accommodation. As we checked in we were given 'welcome' drinks...nice.
Glad to settle on our beds after a shower.

We had Saturday to rest and regroup a bit. Enjoyed a buffet breakie with some interesting options..
Ceviche de pescado ecuatoriano (a raw fish mixture), Traditional Ecuadorian food wrapped in bamboo, banana empanadas, corn bread rolls and the usual offerings..
Tom was keen to go for a swim in the pool...so we headed up to the rooftop area..I snoozed after a short dip...
This is a photo of the best cup of tea I managed to acquire all holiday.
Coffee is the drink of choice here...bitter as...but I got used to it as tea was virtually impossible to get..I was either misunderstood...so coffee would arrive or they would rustle up a teabag and bring a cup of hot water with it.

We had some lunch then decided to walk up to the lighthouse on Santa Ana Hill via Las Penas..

Extremely hot and sticky but so interesting AND we could hear Latino music wafting up from the local housing (see below)and blaring from the radios of the Security Guards stationed every 200 metres along the way...that's more like it!!

Cannon used to defend the city from Pirates in 17th Century

There were shops and stalls all the way along the stairs to Santa Ana. Families setting cold drinks, ices and souvenirs

We walked further along the river front. There were lots of families enjoying a lovely Saturday afternoon

Tom stopped at a kiosk near this play area to buy a Cola...Took him a few goes...as the guy thought he was saying ''Hola!''

A local resident

Back for a welcome swim then we pack our gear ,have dinner and settle down for the night.
I had an Ecuadorian meal.. Shrimp in a coconut sauce with fried green plantain, rice and salad.Yum

Sunday morning we head down for breakie about 7am as our tour group is being picked up at 8.30am to fly out to San Cristobal Island. On the way down in the lift another couple joins us...and asks if we are going to Galapagos...Yep ...we meet Gretchen and Jeb our tour buddies. Gretchen informs us that we are it!! There are no others in our group. G & J are a delightful couple from North Carolina USA who recently moved to Cuenca ,Ecuador. Gretchen has Dutch/ Cuban background and speaks fluent Spanish...an effusive and absolutly delightful woman who strikes up a conversation with anyone and everyone. Jeb (real name Stuart) is of American/German background...with a dry and ready humour and a gentle lilting accent..lovely..We thank our lucky stars as we all admitted to a certain anxiety about our fellow travelers. Off to a good start, we share breakie and meet up in the lobby for our adventure to begin.
Off we go..Tom and Gretchen all smiles...we are going to GALAPAGOS!!
First stop San Cristobal

The plane had come from Quito so was almost full. We were allocated the emergency exit rows.
One and a half hour flight .

After going through customs in a big shed style airport facility ..we pay our $100 National Park fees , have bags inspected and finally head outside and meet Gustavo our guide. We pile into a ute/taxi and for a minute wonder where Gus will sit... soon sorted...Galapagos style

We have burgers and chocolate cake for lunch, prepared by Isabella at a local house used by ROW tours. Then Tom and I get our wetsuits/ snorkeling gear. All ready..we go for a walk down the block to the harbour, while Gus goes to help set up the Kayaks.

Sea lions are lolling on boats, rocks , on the beach and in the water..everywhere really.

We get set and head off on our kayak up the coast (6 nautical miles).

I spot my first Blue Footed Boobie...how exciting

Unfortunately the conditions are against us. There is quite a strong southerly current and the wind picks up...so we battle a decent swell for about an hour and hardly make any headway.

Gus calls it...and we are picked up by Carlos and Carlito in the support boat. Carlito has to man handle lash the kayaks to front of the boat..

It's quite a ride to our campsite.

Paolo and Klever have set up the tents and will prepare our delicious meals over the next 2 days. They do not speak any English so it is wonderful to have Gretchen chatting to them and interpreting for us. There are lots of laughs. Tom and I use our limited Spanish to say hello and thankyou.

Row tours is the only organisation permitted to camp in the National Park area on San Cristobal. It is a magic spot and we are all thrilled to be in this special peaceful , beautiful place. We snorkel before dinner, enjoy a wonderous sunset and then do battle with mozzies before heading to out tents

Paolita the camp Heron Row tours is the only organisation permitted to camp in the National Park area on San Cristobal. It is a magic spot and we are all thrilled to be in this special peaceful , beautiful place. We snorkel before dinner, enjoy a wondrous sunset and then do battle with mozzies before heading to out tents

Tom heads to the "bar" for a cold drink (Esky on the sand)

Hermit Crabs make magic tracks in the sand..

Those pesky mozzies

Tent time..

We have a good system(when it works) to use the porta potty set up in an open tent a little distance from the tents. There is a Stop/Go sign that you rotate to indicate if the loo is in use.. Trouble is there are a number of times Stop is not turned around so we have to do a head count to decide if it's free..all good fun.

Monday morning after early morning snorkel and breakie we head out on our Kayak north to Puorto Grande beach (6 nautical miles). Gretchen and Jeb take some beautiful shots.

The water is lovely and calm in our little bay..

The swell is up on the open sea, but not as bad as yesterday. It's grueling going for Tom and I and we lag behind..Very happy when Gus calls a cold drink break, bobbing beside the support boat.

Tom and I eventually get there...well behind Gus, Gretchen and Jeb...but it has been a beautiful experience following the coast and looking out to Kicker Rock...even spotting turtles.

We leave our Kayaks and board a local fisherman's speed boat to head out to Kicker Rock (Leon Domigo) to snorkel.

We spend about 45 minutes in the water...what an amazing experience..

The fish are abundant, we see turtles, sharks and I have a close encounter with a Sea Lion...very special

Octopus

I am delighted that the patches I bought from NZ Pharmacy for seasickness are working a treat.
The swell of the ocean doesn't worry me at all.

We are called back to the boat and enjoy cinnamon tea a packed lunch of rice and Tuna fish followed by fresh fruit,

as we speed back to camp. What a fabulous day..

And still time for an afternoon snorkel / walk down the beach

Sally Lightfoot Crab

Lava Lizard

Off to bed after another amazing dinner prepared by Paolo and Klever.
Shrimp in coconut sauce/ salad/ rice and lemon slice with iced tea.
Monday, before to head back to town .
A few tense moments when the boat stops and we drift about while the fishermen fiddle about to get it going again..

We arrive back at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno and there is a taxi ute waiting for us. this time tom takes the back seat...what fun. Arriving at the airport about 7am..there is no-one about,,,until a guy arrives on his bicycle to open up and process our tickets. A girl arrives and she does quarantine checks and weighs our bags. We have a bit of a wait so wander about until its time to board our small 9 seater plane,, (the same girl has walked over to the terminal to escort us to the plane.